View Full Version : How do you sharpen an axe?
Raging Sheep
9th August 2005, 12:10 PM
I got my axe out raedy to do some clearance at the end of my garden but it just bounces off the branches of the elder trees I want to clear out. How should I sharpen it?
timmygowalkies
9th August 2005, 01:09 PM
I found this on Scoutbase. There is a section on the third page about sharpening axes. It seems to agree with all the other things I have read about sharpening axes. The whole Information Sheet is quite a useful, if basic, guide to using an axe safely.
http://www.scoutbase.org.uk/library/hqdocs/facts/pdfs/fs315070.pdf
grummit
9th August 2005, 05:30 PM
have a look in your local libary for a book called bush craft by mors kachanski he has a real good chapter on it if you cant this my help a bit
http://72.36.134.230/community/showthread.php?t=7005&highlight=sharpening
Digby
16th November 2005, 08:03 PM
Grummit pointed to a real good site. Once you get an axe properly sharp, if you look after it, you don't need to put in much work to keep them sharp.
Scott
17th November 2005, 06:03 PM
Well firstly, and this isn't a jibe at you but if you don't know how to sharpen an axe then you shouldn't have one until you do. It depends upon what bevel your axe has and it's design but for a classic woods axe the best and cheapest way would be to do the following:
Take a block of timber, glue some closed cell foam onto that (old sleeping mats, mousemats etc) and then cut two slits into the side of the timber slanting upwards so that some cut pieces of Wet N Dry paper can be inserted.
I use grits 400, 600, 800 and 1200. You can get these from www.axminster.co.uk (http://www.axminster.co.uk/) or Halfords. ( You will only need to use grits that low if it is really dull)
I cut off the end of a kebab stick to secure the paper into the slits in the timber. I know some people have used guitar plectrums in the past. What ever's around eh.
Once you've made one secure the axe in a clamp/vice or make one with wooden pegs and a log. Now starting with the lower grit push the "hone" onto the edge and sharpen it with a circular motion all the way on the edge, then go onto the other side and repeat it increasing the grit and obviously each time you go up a grit don't press down so hard so by the time you reach 1200 you should only be lightly brushing it. After this you will need to do 100 strops on each side on a strip of leather/belt.
This will help to keep the convex shape of the axe head.
Here's a picture from Hoodoo from BCUK:
http://www4.gvsu.edu/triert/images11/hhonewwetterling.jpg
Ollie
7th December 2005, 05:19 PM
Very cunning, Scott! Quite useful, thanks.
PS Who made you high commander?! :D
Ollie
Scott
7th December 2005, 05:54 PM
Self-appointed :D I have an axe and I'm not afraid to use it so who wants to fight me for it????
Ollie
8th December 2005, 04:43 PM
Not me - I'd imagine it'd be quite sharp!
grummit
22nd July 2006, 06:59 AM
you have a sharp axe scott ? lol only because it is a gransfors .
what scott says is true best not use an axe until you have mastered a knife
and are ready for them they tend to bite hard and deep. even after twenty years of using them for work and plesure i still have a scar on my left index finger to prove that one careless moment or lapse of thought
and you end up in stitches .
so here is my top tip for the day when you grab an axe or any sharp blade grab your fak to :)
Bigjimlakeakaray
30th April 2007, 08:40 PM
I've got a Gransfors Wildlife hatchet and it's the most beautiful and brilliant tool ever. It is incredibly sharp, and it's true, once it's sharp, as long as you care for them, they wont lose it easily.And I slipped first day I was using it (Boxing day), still got the scar from the nick on my knuckle. Know how to use them, and always have your first aid kit when you take out your axe/knife.
You should be trained how to use one, my old scout master taught me.
Ollie
4th July 2007, 01:10 PM
It's a shame there's not a lot of people who know enough to be able to train you nowadays! Got any advice or tips that might help?
grummit
13th July 2007, 03:30 PM
the longer the axe the safer they are and keep your hands away from the edge:)
MariaD
14th July 2007, 11:36 AM
But the shorter the axe the more control you have over the swing - surely it depends on what you're using it for?
Gary
19th July 2007, 01:42 PM
Personally I'd say you have three choices ......
1. On a bench stone
2. File
3. Axe stone
Generally speaking safety should be your main consideration so with this in mind a bench stone is best - dont risk your expensive waterstones either - just a cheap old norton Oil stone will do. Run the axes cutting edge from heel to tip down the stone as if trying to slice off a waffer of stone - alternate both sides of the blade evenly and most important try to roll the blade via the handle to ensure you maintain the CONVEX grind of the cutting edge.
Ant
22nd December 2007, 03:10 PM
Wasn't sure where to put this.. so many threads on the same subject.
The type of steel the tool is made from makes a huge difference. Most of the bladed toos I have here are made of a steel that is almost impossible to sharpen, especially with stones. However, yesterday I decided to see if I could sharpen the rusted sickle (indicating that it was a carbon steel blade) in the garage. The edge was blunt but after using a veriaty of strokes (to see what the best method was) keeping the blade still and moving the stone a sharper edge formed. Not as sharp as it could be but I dare not sharpen an unsheathed item too much.
David
22nd December 2007, 10:13 PM
I think I know what you mean. I find some metals; especially that shiny flexible penknife type steel, don't seem to get that sharp whatever I try. Perhaps it's to do with the hardness (I assume if it's bendy then it also isn't as "hard" in the technical way people sometimes talk about.)
dasy2k1
3rd June 2008, 05:02 PM
i have used bench stones and files in the past, depending on how mistreated the axe has been or rather how long it has been continued to be used blunt after sharpening was necessary
start with a second cut file, then 200 grit bench stone then 600 grit.
then a piece of rawhide tacked to a wooden block the same size as a bench stone (tacked on the ends)
for a sickle i find it best to use a cigar shaped scythe stone of a medium grit. hold the sickle still, then start at the handle and the centre of the scythe stone, use a sweeping stroke ending at the tip of the balde and the tip of the stone at the same time
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