Belaying device

From Guides

Types of Belay Devices

There are two main types of belay device. Dynamic and Auto locking

Dynamic

The ATC is the most commonly used dynamic belay device and is used in conjunction with a HMS karabina to create friction, preventing rope slippage.

Advantages

• Light-weight
• Easy to use
• Can be used with a range of rope diameters
• Can accommodate a single rope
• Can accommodate two ropes - either half ropes or twins
• Does not kink the rope
• Can be used for rappelling/abseiling

Disadvantages

• Requires an active part by the belayer to arrest a fall
• Can only be used for slow rappelling as a fast rappel/abseil can over heat the belay plate and can damage the rope by melting the sheath

Auto locking

An auto locking belay device consists of a mechanism which locks down on the rope when a sudden force is applied to it. These tend to be used by sport climbers and for indoor gym use.

Advantages

• Does not require the force caused by the belayer's hand to arrest the fall
• Allow for speedier lowering of the climber due to the smooth action in which rope is allowed to pass through it

Disadvantages

• High shock loads are placed on the rope during fall as immediate force is applied to the rope, as opposed to a more gentler application of pressure by the dynamic belay plates.
• They should therefore only be used with thicker ropes, e.g. 10/11 mm
• Does not work well in wet or icy conditions

Auto blocking

Advantages

Locks off as with the auto locking devices, such as the GriGri, however can be used as a normal stick plate

Disadvantages

When locked off with weight in the system it is very difficult to release the belay device