Crampons

From Guides

Crampons consist of a flexible or rigid spiky frame which can be attached to the sole of a mountain walking boot in order to aid traction on snowy or icy ground.

Mountaineering crampons come in a variety of different styles and usually have either 10 or 12 points. While more flexible crampons provide less security on steep ice climbs, rigid crampons do not perform well on mixed terrain. For this reason, the versatile semi-flexible C2 crampons are the preferred crampon for most mountaineering expeditions.

For walkers, there are smaller 4 or 6 point instep crampons available. These can be used for crossing snowfields on easy terrain, but do not have sufficient traction to be used for mountaineering or walking on steep icy slopes.

Crampon and Boot Categories

Crampons

C1 - Flexible walking or general mountaineering crampon that can be used on mountain walks and easier climbing grades.

C2 - Semi-flexible mountaineering and climbing crampon that can be used for both walking and climbing at harder grades. Suitable for most Alpine or Scottish winter routes.

C3 - Fully rigid crampon designed for technical mountaineering and steep ice climbing.

Boots

B1 - Four season boot with semi-stiff midsoles and a supportive upper. Suitable for use with C1 crampons

B2 - A stiff 4-season boot with a supportive upper. These usually have facility for heel clip bindings to be fitted. Suitable for use with C1 or C2 crampons

B3 - A totally rigid technical mountaineering and ice-climbing boot. The sole has the facility to allow fitting crampons with heel clips and wire toe bails. Ideal for use with C3 crampons, but can also take C1 or C2 crampons.

Anti-Balling Plates

Small pieces of rubber or plastic which act to stop snow balling up on the base of the crampon.

Crampon Technique

There are various crampon techniques which are commonly employed by mountaineers and ice climbers:

Flat-footing

Flat-footing is the best technique to use on relatively easy terrain. The foot is placed flat on the surface of the ice/snow so that all crampon points are in contact with the ice. When walking, plant your feet as solidly as possible so as to gain maximum traction. As the slope gets steeper, walking using this technique will require lots of ankle flexibility. After walking like this for long periods of time, your ankles may start to feel very sore and tired!

Front-Pointing

This technique is known as "front-pointing" becuase only the front-facing points of the crampon are dug into the ice/snow. It is generally used to ascend or descend steep slopes where flat-footing is impossible. The climber faces in towards the slope and kicks his toes in to plant the front points. It is the most direct way to ascend a steep slope, although on particularly hard snow/ice it may require significant force to kick the points in securely.

Pied Troisieme

This involves mixing the front-pointing with flat-footing. This combination is far less tiring on the ankles than simply flat-footing. Another advantage of this technique is that it can be used on moderate to relatively steep slopes, increasing its versatility. To do this, plant the front points of one foot directly into the ice while keeping the other foot turned out to the side, with the sole flat against the ground.

Crampon Fitting

To adjust a crampon, either lengthen or shorten the central connecting bar as appropriate. On some crampons this requires the use of a special tool or screwdriver, whilst on others it can be done by hand. A well-fitting crampon sticks to the sole of the boot by the pressure of the side posts alone without needing to fasten the straps. When the boot is lifted up sole-down, the crampon will stay in place. The sole of the boot should touch the full sole plate of the crampon.